The last car to cross the old Liberty Memorial Bridge was a motorcycle

That’s right. As a big proponent of motorcycling in North Dakota, I’m pretty happy to say that a motorcycle closed the books on “civilian” travel over our beloved bridge. If I may digress for a moment, I’d like to point out that this bridge was scary/fun back on a motorcycle back when it had the metal deck! Not only could a rider look straight below and see the water, but the gridwork made motorcycle tires “swim” back and forth in a manner most discomforting at first. Digression aside, those fine folks in the picture above were blocking off public traffic on this bridge forever. Maybe they sensed that I am a former DOT employee, maybe they were just being polite…in any case, they allowed me to park my motorcycle off to the side and wait to be the last guy across.

Someone in a white Ford Thunderbird actually got in behind me after I took off across the bridge from the Bismarck side. At that point I thought I’d missed my chance to be the last person across the bridge, and resigned myself to simply being the last motorcycle across. But an idea struck as I reached the Mandan side: turn around. Not only did I want to take more pictures, but I had to get back to work! I’m very busy and didn’t have a very long lunch break. So, when I got to the Mandan side, I did a quick U-turn and headed back. That made me the last motorcycle and last vehicle to cross.

This is what it looks like to have the Memorial Bridge all to yourself…that is, if you’re on a customized Suzuki with a camera hanging around your neck. This will live on as my last view of the bridge I’ve known all my life, even when I was living in Montana as a kid and looked forward to the “humming bridge” when we’d come to Bismarck to visit family.

My sources tell me that someone called KFYR-TV after their newscast to complain that he was the last guy across. That would have to have been either the person behind me in the white car, or the last person to come across from the Mandan side (before I did my u-turn). In any case, nobody came across from the Bismarck side after the white car and I, and nobody came across from the Mandan side after I did. I know because I sat at the red light on the east end of the bridge for what seemed forever, since I was wearing leather riding gear and was very hot. Nobody came up behind me. Sorry, whoever you are…the reports are accurate.

Farewell, beloved bridge. I’m glad I got to say goodbye.

Just as I got to drive on the Expressway Bridge shortly after it opened (I had my permit, my mom let me drive) I got to ride on this bridge right before it closed. I know, it’s odd to be so sentimental about local landmarks…but what can I say? I love Bismarck-Mandan. I always have. That’s why I started this website in the first place. I’m just thankful that I have a camera and can run around after things like this. It’s cool to document Bismarck-Mandan history and provide a viewpoint for the record.

By the way, I noted again today that Brad Feldman seems to have the same sort of sentimentality for our town. I really like his Around Town segments on KX news, as well as his knack for local information. I could tell from the tone of his report on the bridge closing on tonight’s news. It’s cool to see someone who has a love of their community and what’s going on here. Hopefully people who read my ramblings here will catch that sentimentality, then things like this bridge closing will seem a little more significant.

Something I noticed while waiting for the elevator at the Capitol

While standing on the first floor of the state capitol building, I happened to examine the detail of the elevator’s outer doors. This is the top set of stampings; more of them run along the edge of the doors where they meet.

Yes, “we” were once at war with the indigenous people of this land…that’s part of our history. Likewise, they were occasionally at war with each other, and I’m quite certain that everyone in the USA comes from a race or nationality that was run roughshod over by an invading army at one time or another. That’s just the way history has played out.

I’ve interviewed Native American soldiers who served in the US Army during Korea and later wars. While many of them still carry around a lot of angst over the history of our various peoples, they were still willing to fight and die for this land as it currently stands. Take, for instance, the Standing Rock color guard I mentioned earlier. I was proud to see them standing at the memorial services last Memorial Day. Was it because of their skin color or race? No. Was it some sort of “white guilt” or a wave of political correctness whelming my soul? No. It was pride in these fellas who are actually members of a “nation within a nation” as it were.

While I recognize that the tribes are sovereign, I have to admit I’m confused as to what that means at the bottom line. Regardless, these men served on our behalf. Sure, there are still individuals harboring prejudice against each other’s race…but I still say we’ve come a long way from the days depicted on those elevator doors. The USA still has some promises to keep, but I’d rather face the hurdles with optimism rather than bitterness. Easy for a white guy to say, sure…but I still just see people as people. If all we ever did was hate anyone whose ancestors wronged our ancestors, you couldn’t find two people in this world to get along. I prefer healing.

The most popular 55 year old at Buggies ‘n’ Blues

This is ‘Vette Number Three, if I remember correctly…the oldest Corvette in existence. Who better to own it than Corvette enthusiast Dave Ressler? I wonder if it resides at his Corvette Museum on east First Street.

I was excited to see this car, although I must say that I prefer the new Corvettes to the old. A friend of mine used to let me drive his ’64 Stingray convertible a lot, and that was nice because the car is such a classic, but the new ones are bristling with technology and far outperform the originals. It’s like comparing old and new Star Trek or old and new Van Halen…classic hot rods and modern sports cars are two different animals entirely.

I took a lot of pics during my walk around Buggies ‘n’ Blues, but haven’t had time to go through them. They may show up around here sometime down the road. I did see Governor Hoeven and his wife perusing the rows of cars, although I doubt he’s as much of a motorhead as his predecessor. I also drove out to the fly-in at the Mandan Airport, but didn’t see anything noteworthy going on out there. I suspect I was too late.

The cool, wet weather has somewhat masked the fact that this is the time of year when lots of really cool outdoor activities take place in North Dakota. According to Too Tall Tom, very warm weather is around the corner. For now I’ll just be thankful for the rain, and enjoy the outdoor stuff in the baking heat when it arrives.

Cold War exhibit at the Heritage Center

This is part of a small Cold War exhibit at the ND State Heritage Center. It’s nothing on the scale of the National Atomic Museum I wrote about,but is tailored toward a North Dakota audience.


Here’s a list of Soviet missile targets in North Dakota. The list was released by FEMA in 1990, after the fall of the Soviet Union. I suppose it’s only fair, as North Dakota had a lot of really nasty firecrackers pointed in their direction as well! Mutual Assured Destruction, and all that…


Here’s one of those targets: MAFB missile facilities. Unlike the movie War Games, where the launch control center is disguised as a farm house, we’re actually pretty open about where our stuff is at. As those joker peaceniks found out a while back, we have plenty of men & women ready to defend those facilities. As far as who kept throwing jackrabbits over the fence line to trip the sensors at the silo sites, well…I have no idea who that could be!

At the end of the exhibit, visitors are invited to leave a Post-It with their impressions of the display. Mine said something to the effect of, “We won the Cold War nearly twenty years ago, and the liberals are STILL trying to surrender.” I’m sure it wasn’t long before some career academic came by and made it go away, but I exercised my right to free speech.

I’m not sure how long this exhibit is scheduled to be in the Heritage Center; in fact, I took the pics over a week ago. It doesn’t show up on the State Historical Society web page, but that doesn’t look like it’s updated very frequently. If you’re interested in this exhibit, hang a sharp right as soon as you enter the Heritage Center. It is (was?) in the gallery room preceding the door to the library of the state archives.

The giving tree

It’s been a while since I’ve taken a picture of this famous tree, parked right in the middle of Burleigh Avenue. Soon its branches will be adorned with leaves. Despite development in the area, this tree is not in jeopardy; at a City Commission meeting I attended, it was discussed that this tree will be protected by curb and gutter because of its importance to the citizens of our fair city. Sweet.

Switches of history

This dusty little box of switches doesn’t look like much. They’re probably fifty years old. Despite being housed in a small, slim housing, they’re actually VERY heavy for their size. They bear only handwritten numbers as their labels, and they’ve been banished to an almost-forgotten equipment rack in the back of what used to be the KFYR-TV weather center (before we built the First Warn Forecast Center). In fact, the narrow room itself has a history, as it once served as the KYYY-FM control room. But I digress…back to the switches.

These switches once served a very important purpose: they switched the Provident Life Weather Beacon. See the little colored markings next to some of the switches? They were: 1-Red, 2-Flashing Red; 3-Green, 4-Flashing Green; and 5-White, 6-Flashing White. When on duty at the station, I used to update the Weather Beacon every few hours. A reminder showed up on the station’s program log at the appropriate times. I’d duck around the corner and push the corresponding button if a change was needed, the heavy action of the pushbutton switches confirming my action. Nowadays, the KFYR-AM staff have to rely on a telephone-based touchtone system, and get a confirmation tone that isn’t 100% foolproof. Gotta love that old-school hardwired technology!

I still freelance for the company that owns the North Dakota NBC stations, and still have my keys and electronic pass for the station. A while back I asked my friend and former co-worker (“Spiderman” is his nickname) if the switches still existed. He dug around in the aforementioned rack and found that yes, they’re still around…they just aren’t hooked to anything on the roof of the Provident Building any more. He invited me up to take a look. They were behind a panel, but we stood them up for these photos.

Thinking about this post got me on a hunt for one of my more treasured Bismarck souvenirs: a little red and white pamphlet from the Provident Life Co. which describes the Weather Beacon. It has the jingle on it, and everything. But I can’t find it! I’ve checked my files, my safe, my lockbox, my bookshelves…no luck. I know it’s around here somewhere, and I’ll keep looking frequently until I find it someday. The scan of it above is from one of my Beacon pages, which I saved from my days as KFYR Radio’s webmaster.

Yeah, I asked if I could have the switches. No such luck. Hopefully, now that someone at the station knows about them, they’ll find their way to a display case as a part of the station’s history. It would be a shame to have them disappear back into the racks again, or to be discarded by someone who doesn’t know what they are. I’m not worried; I think they’ll be in good hands. Spidey likes local history just as much as I do.

Solberg Butte in ten photos

This rock face sits on the north end of a hill that peaks as Solberg Butte, but since I have a friend who’s a Solberg I decided that the name applies to the entire hill. I’ve spent some time on this hill from time to time, with the landowner’s permission, and am finally going to tell you a little bit about it while guiding you through last Friday’s hike.

The picture above is the rock face on the north end of the hill, which is the feature that led me to this place. A friend of mine used to fly his hang glider off the back of this hill. On one occasion, the friend who was filming his crashes helping him came around the corner and exclaimed that he’d found all sorts of writing on the rocks! It was those rocks I set out to find, and find them I did.

I was not wearing the shoes for this. Hiking this hill is fun when it’s not caked in slippery snow, but trudging up it in ankle socks and a pair of well-worn Airwalks is just plain ridiculous. Thankfully I had my monopod with me, which doubles as a hiking stick.

Here’s one of the rock faces filled with writing. I know, there’s so much other gunk on the rock that you can’t make out the writing, but I wanted to show you the cool overhang formed by the eroded sandstone.

Here we have some of the writings, most with dates. The one at the top of the frame says “J.H. 1922” and below it is the outline of a smilin’ dude. It’s hard to make out, but the top of his head starts just to the left of the top of my monopod.

This one was really well worn. It’s dated 1903. I embellished the date just a bit in Photoshop so it would be easier to read. In person it was quite easy to make out. Because this rock erodes so easily, newer carvings like the “MIKE” to the right of it are much deeper.

This particular carving says June (something) 1927. No embellishment here. There are many other carvings as well, but to do so here would require hundreds of photos; the entire rock face has carvings on it!

Surprise of a lifetime: out walking around atop the technically accurate peak of Solberg Butte, I stumbled upon this marker! If I’d been looking for the thing, I’d likely have gone years without finding it. But in the fashion of my usual dumb luck, I nearly tripped on it. This marker (and its accompanying azimuth marker a few yards away) was placed in 1945. You can read more about the National Geodetic Survey’s current incarnation by clicking here. Its history is even more fascinating; I’ll let you track that down on your own.

ADDED:This is the second marker, the one I referred to as an azimuth marker earlier. Notice that the center of the disc has an arrow in it, not a triangle.  Bruce, one of my readers, found the actual azimuth marker’s location to be quite some distance away. I guess this one is just to indicate the direction in which the azimuth marker lies. See, I learn something new every day!

The view of the road. I don’t know if the picture conveys it, but I’m up a little ways.

Cool snow, huh? This was on the hike back down. I had a racquetball date to keep with my wife, and boy did I get skunked! But overall the day was a success, because I had a fun hike and photos to share. I got to leave work early today due to some extra time I’d put in earlier in the week, so I had time to go pokin’ around.

I’m not divulging the exact location of this site, but I will say that it’s northeast of Bismarck. The geodetic marker is a clue, that it’s in the Naughton township…east of the Naughton School, by the way. But because this land is posted No Trespassing, don’t go getting any ideas. I have explicit permission from the landowner himself to visit this site, something that took quite a while to get. In all the photos I post here, I always honor No Trespassing and other posted signs, respect landowners’ rights, and seek their permission. I expect my readers to do the same.

Buried beside Sibley Drive

How would you like to be buried roadside in south Bismarck? Or actually be buried in the middle of nowhere, and have Bismarck suddenly encroach upon your final resting place? That’s what happened to these two fellas, Nicholas Miller and Fred Holt Beaver. Their graves lie along Sibley Drive in south Bismarck, where they’ve been since the 1860s.

This is the stone of Fred Beaver. The metal plaque reads:

“ON THIS SPOT, JULY 31, 1863, OCCURRED THE FIRST MASONIC CEREMONY HELD IN THE PRESENT STATE OF NORTH DAKOTA.

IT WAS THE MASONIC FUNERAL OF LIEUTENANT FRED J. HOLT BEAVER, AN ENGLISHMAN AND OXONIAN, AND A VOLUNTEER SOLDIER, ATTACHED TO THE STAFF OF GENERAL H. H. SIBLEY. HE WAS KILLED IN A SKIRMISH WITH THE INDIANS AND WAS BURIED IN THE RIFLE PITS WHICH WERE DUG ALONG THIS RIDGE.
DEPUTY GRAND MASTER JON C. WHIPPLE OF MINNESOTA CONVENED AN EMERGENCY MASONIC LODGE WITH BROTHERS A.J. EDGERTON AS WORSHIPFUL MASTER, J. C. BRADEN, SENIOR WARDEN, AND PATCH JUNIOR WARDEN, AND THE BODY OF BROTHER BEAVER WAS HERE CONSIGNED TO EARTH WITH MASONIC SERVICES.
THIS TABLET AND MARKER HAS BEEN PLACED BY THE GRAND LODGE, A.F. AND A.M., OF NORTH DAKOTA, A.D. 1920, A.L. 5920, TO COMMEMORATE THE FACT THAT WHILE LIEUTENANT BEAVER DIED FAR FROM HOME AND AMONG STRANGERS, YET HE WAS AMONG BRETHREN WHO SAW THAT THE HONORS SO JUSTLY HIS DUE WERE PAID HIM.”

Those wacky Masons. The other stone, a more traditional one, sits just to the north:

This stone simply reads:

NICHOLAS MILLER
CO K
6 MINN INF

JULY 29 1863

These two stones sit pretty much in someone’s back yard. I didn’t know they were there until finding them on a Geocaching trip last year. These guys were apparently buried pretty much where they died, according to the stone above Fred Beaver’s grave.

If you’re interested in finding these markers, point your GPS at 46°44.412’N, 100°45.759’W. They’re on the east side of Sibley Drive as you head south. They’re just about in someone’s back yard, so please be respectful of that fact. These markers are another example of the interesting history sitting right beneath the noses of Bismarck-Mandan’s citizens. Too few of us get to find out about stuff like this!

Anniversary of North Dakota’s last lynching

January 29th marked the 77th anniversary of the last lynching in North Dakota, probably the most popular one as well. Locals broke into the Schafer Jail and retrieved Charles Bannon, accused of murdering the family who’d hired him as a farm hand. Apparently there were nearly 75 people and over a dozen cars involved in hauling this guy out to the nearest bridge and giving him the last necktie he’d ever wear.

Want more information? Visit an interesting source of information: the North Dakota Supreme Court’s news page.

Download the Governor’s “Angel Day” proclamation

I wasn’t there Wednesday because I work for a living, but the state capitol was all abuzz with the folks getting their certificates for taking part in the snow angel record. I was there, but I wasn’t flapping my arms. I was flapping the shutter in my camera from the roof of the capitol.

Now the governor has proclaimed December 26th, 2007 to be Snow Angel Day in order to commemorate the event. You can download a PDF of the proclamation by clicking here (Adobe Reader required). Save a copy to your hard drive and print it out to go with your Guinness Book of World Records snow angel certificate, if you have one. And get ready…those Michigan folks are preparing to take another run at the record! That means we’ll have to reclaim it if they succeed, with another outing on the capitol lawn and another day of passing out certificates when we emerge victorious. Ah, the thrill of competition, eh?