Category Archives: History

Landmark protected, not hacked down

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With the addition of an large new neighborhood south of Burleigh Avenue, many were up in arms regarding the fate of this tree, perhaps Bismarck’s most popular (Too bad I can’t say “poplar!”). For decades, people have passed the the right of this tree, and perhaps some daredevils to the left, while driving along Burleigh Avenue. After all this time, many don’t want to see the tree disturbed.

Growth means change, and change means…well, CHANGE. What do many die-hard Nodaks fear the most? You guessed it. Well, in this case, there’s nothing to fear for the immediate future. When the Bismarck City Commission voted to accept the annexation of a couple of plats of land to be used in this neighborhood, the question of the tree came up. As it turns out, the tree will be more protected than ever: it will be surrounded by curb and gutter. Change doesn’t have to mean you destroy the old to bring in the new…and it seems great care will be taken to avoid causing damage the the ol’ tree.

Did I hear someone at the City Commission meeting mumble “good hangin’ tree” or was that my imagination?

A promise should be kept

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This is a picture from 1948, when tribal chairman George Gillette wept after signing away the best of the reservation lands to the Corps of Engineers. They were paid a paltry sum for the land, denied mineral and shoreline rights, and promised a health care center that never materialized. Sounds consistent with our track record of keeping promises made with indigenous peoples, doesn’t it?

This picture has always stuck in my mind because it illustrates an important point: when we think of treaties broken before the ink was dry, or other consistent mistreatment of the Native American people, we tend to think of the US Cavalry dealing with people still living in tipis or earth lodges. As you can see, that isn’t so. My parents were alive when this last one happened…maybe some of you were as well.

I got the opportunity to work with Tex Hall again this week, who’s the chairman of the Three Affiliated Tribes. I asked him about this health care center that was supposed to be built, and he indicated that Senator Dorgan actually pulled some appropriations strings to get the ball rolling. Like Chairman Hall told Senator Dorgan, this isn’t an appopriations priority…this is a promise. A promise made almost sixty years ago.

I can only think of a few ways in which I’m not proud of my country, and its broken promises are one of them. This is one that hopefully will be rectified in the near future. A promise should be kept.

A brief history lesson

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It’s our church’s 25th anniversary this October, and some of the church ladies are putting together a scrapbook of sorts to commemorate the occasion. I decided to investigate the history of the building where our church is located, as it’s very old. I didn’t know how old.

The building, which doesn’t look quite like the NDSHS photo above, has been around for a long, long time. I’ve spent some time in the county archives and am piecing together a complete history. Here are some interesting facts I’ve found:

The railroad was apparently granted a pretty big easement on either side of the tracks when it came through here; the land the church sits on, on 7th and Avenue C, is in the Northern Pacific 2nd Addition part of town. The land was transferred from the railroad to a number of private owners until Trinity Lutheran Church purchased it in 1912 and built a church there. That church was later sold in 1926 and has changed hands many times since. It became Open Door Baptist Church in 1981 (thus the 25th anniversary) and I’m still filling in the gaps therebetween. I can tell so far that it has been a 7th Day Adventists church, a Menonnite Brethren church, and at least two different Baptist churches.

My searches on the computer only got me so far back; from there I switched to microfilm cards, and those got me back a little further. But the most interesting (and time consuming) work has been flipping pages in the huge old 120-year-old books in the county archives. Talk about neat! I went from my adventures in a nanotechnology center Thursday to handling books from the 1800s on Friday. What a week.

Here are some other interesting Bismarck facts I have dug up recently:

Bismarck was originally named Edwinton, named after Edwin Johnson of Vermont. He was the man who came up with the suggestion for a transcontinental railroad.

They changed the name to Bismarck to try to get Otto von Bismarck to kick in some venture capital and invest in the railroad, the lifeblood of the city.

Bismarck became the territorial capitol by offering land and cash — $100,000 and 160 acres. Logically, it then became North Dakota’s capitol when we achieved statehood. I was on assignment last week with some guys from the federal government, and they asked Governor Hoeven about the capitol site…at that time, someone from the state came up with a slightly smaller number than 160 acres. Some of it may have been portioned off for other uses.

Some names you might find familiar if you read street signs:

– Sweet and Bowen were to engineers who worked on the layout of the city in its early planning stages.

– Grant Marsh wasn’t a bridge, he was the captain of the Far West riverboat, ferrying people and cargo across the Missouri River.

– Alexander McKenzie owned the hotel that later became the Patterson, on 5th and Main.

– John Yegen owned a bakery on Main Avenue, and it’s now an attraction at Buckstop Junction east of Bismarck.

– Belle Mehus was a Bismarck piano teacher for many years.

Did you know that the CAT isn’t the first bus system that Bismarck had? Or that a trolley ran up 4th street from Main Avenue to the Capitol? Or that, during the railroad’s heyday, Bismarck was called “the wickedest town in America” due to its saloons and rowdy passers-through?

These and a lot of other facts and photos are out there if you just hunt around. For instance, the walls at the Peacock Alley have lots of old photos of downtown Bismarck. I highly recommend a book titled “Images of America: Bismarck, North Dakota” by local author Cathy Langemo, from which the above names are taken. She seems to have done some really fun research and compiled some photos as well. The book’s ISBN number is 0-7385-2000-4 and it can be found in the local interest section of Barnes & Noble.

May’s Camera: 1967 to 2006

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It’s official: May’s Camera is gone. After a run of nearly 40 years, they recently closed their doors, adding yet another blank storefront to the plagued downtown area of Bismarck. It’s always sad to see the closure of a homegrown business with a long legacy…but, that said, I had only been in May’s four or five times. Ever. I wonder how many Bismarck shoppers ever gave them a try?

In a recent Bismarck Tribune article, the demise was attributed to “the digital revolution and the opening of several discount retailers” — I think the Internet is implied. I’d have to disagree there.

First off, the digital revolution should have been a Godsend for any camera shop. For instance: I wanted to get into photography for years. I even sold high-end cameras in the 1980’s on the side while working for KBMY-TV 17 for a while, but never had the disposable income to take on yet another hobby with film and processing costs. It took me 20 years to get an SLR camera; I finally did, now that many of them are digital. I first purchased a simple little digital camera when they got into the $300 range, but digital is the reason I finally shoveled a few grand into a NICE camera and lenses, flashes, and other accessories. I bet a lot of photography customers fit my exact description…buying a low end digital camera, finding they like it, and moving up to the high-end gear. So when someone claims that digital photography is part of their downfall, I think they just plain missed the boat.

Second, the “discount retailers.” A family business should have every advantage over a Wal-Mart, Best Buy, or even an Internet retailer. If you go to any of those three, you’re likely to deal with some guy who 1) has minimal training in the product, and 2) has no incentive for you to be happy or angry with your experience. A guy whose next meal depends on whether people leave his store satisfied should be the guy who makes you feel confident in spending your money with him. He’s the guy who should be declaring his expertise and ties to the community on radio, TV, and in print.

Third, most camera equipment is sold at the same price (aside from some promotional sales) no matter where you go. The reason for that is that the manufacturers know the importance of their dealer network and want to protect them. When I wanted to buy my Canon 20D, for example, I compared the Bob’s Photo price to the Internet to see how good the Bob’s price was. Plenty of dealers claimed to have the same camera for $500 cheaper than Bob’s Photo…but when I said, “I want the Canon kit with the Canon battery and charger, Canon lens, strap, software, and cable,” they all said they couldn’t match the price I got from Bob’s. That’s even before adding the $100 insured shipping on a $1600 camera. On some lenses and things they could beat the local price, but not on the camera. Some lenses I’ve bought online because the price difference was so significant, but I spend my money locally whenever I can…even if it costs me a bit more.

Let’s continue with Bob’s Photo as an example. They do a ton of digital photography sales, probably a lot to guys like me who know they’re a better deal than the Internet and/or want to support a local dealer. The “digital revolution” does not appear to have hurt them. They have several ImageStation and other kiosk-type computer systems set up around the store and are ready to do digital prints to photo paper in sizes as large as 20 inches by 30 inches (and they look great). They have the amateur photo contest every year to help get people interested, and they advertise locally.

Bob’s also took the Internet by the horns. They offer free and paid subscriptions to their website, where customers can set up photo albums for others to see and order prints of their photos without ever having to run up to the store and order them through the kiosk. You can upload your images and order your photos in your pajamas, then pick them up at your leisure – only one trip necessary. The Internet doesn’t just benefit warehouse dealers in who-knows-where.

The local businesses that survive the Wal-Marts and the Internet shopping trends are the ones that employ pure capitalism: offer the best service at a comparable price, and beat the big guys by sticking to what you do best. Local shoppers are looking for a reason to spend their money locally; if they like the reasons you provide, they won’t mind spending a little extra money…then we all benefit locally.

I didn’t really address the hobby-shop portion of the business; in that respect, I’ve got to point out that it’s nearly impossible to compete with Wheels, Wings & Hobbies out on the strip in Mandan. Jeff knows his stuff like nobody’s business, he keeps a ton of inventory on hand (including all those parts I tend to break), and has two big racetracks on site – one indoors for electric cars, and one big dirt track out back for the monster trucks. You want to talk about a guy who need not fear the Internet, I think Jeff’s that guy. I’ve bought two nitro burning RC trucks from him so far, and rely on his expertise in customizing them. Again, he fits into the strategy I mentioned before: be so darn good at what you do that nobody wants to go elsewhere. I bet it works every time it’s tried.

The ol’ fixer-upper

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If you’ve driven past the Liberty Memorial Bridge lately I’m sure you’ve seen these scaffolds stuck to the side of two of the support columns. Work continues to put a steel liner around the two trouble spots and fill the gaps with a special concrete.

It looks like one of them is completed and the other one under wraps in these photos, which I took this weekend. I bet it’s cold working up there…that’s likely why they’ve wrapped the area where concrete is to be poured, to let it set properly.

What’s weird about being near the bridge when it’s closed is that it’s eerily quiet in the absence of traffic. The only sound is the constant cooing of all those darn pigeons. That in itself is kinda spooky…what if they decide to revolt?

While they’re at it…shouldn’t they take a look at some of this stuff? I mean, if the rest of the undercarriage of this bridge has broken rebar and crumbling concrete…do we really want to reopen it? That’s kinda scary.

We’ve all had a taste of what life will be like while the bridge’s replacement is built…it’s not fun. Hopefully, once the construction on a new bridge gets underway, the process of building a new one will go quickly.

Some people think this bridge is just fine the way it is, and should simply be properly maintained. Others want it scrapped in favor of a new and better one. Then there’s the shock and awe brought about by its deterioration. And of course those who want it preserved as a historical item.

Personally, I think the historic appeal of this bridge died when they decided to put a concrete deck on the famous “singing bridge.” Now that it appears to be rusting and crumbling away, let’s replace it. But let’s do so responsibly. And I sure hope the next design lasts as long as this one has!

Closed UFN – Memorial Bridge

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This was the scene Wednesday evening as all traffic, motor vehicle and pedestrian, was stopped on the Memorial Bridge. A week or two ago, a crack was discovered in one of the concrete/stone/steel pylons…a crack eighteen inches deep by some reports. I don’t know exactly what they discovered today…but if an eighteen inch crack isn’t serious enough to close the bridge, they found something that is!

For many who remember the bridge’s unique steel decking, this bridge is special. It was a real trip riding motorcycle over this bridge, with the gridwork tugging the wheels side to side while giving a perfect view of the water beneath. Then, when the bridge needed extensive repair work, someone thought up the unique solution of piling another couple dozen tons of concrete on top of that deck. I mean, if the bridge is suffering structurally, wouldn’t the natural response be to increase the load on it?

This is an awkward situation, since the bids for the bridge’s replacement should have already been awarded. But nobody submitted a bid when the process opened last November. Presumably the concrete shortage in the Katrina aftermath and the volatility of steel due to demand and tariffs make bidding a job like this a pretty risky proposition. Other reasons I’ve heard is that major construction firms that do this sort of work are just too darn busy.

I videotaped the ceremony where they announced the new design and had a bunch of muckety-mucks shaking hands with Senator Conrad on the Mandan side of the river. This was last summer. The new design will be very nice, with memorials constructed for the veterans. After all, the existing bridge is dedicated to them. They won’t be forgotten when it is replaced.

So now what? How much money will it cost to nurse this thing along until construction can begin on a new bridge? When does the DOT say it’s not worth it, and abort repairs in preparation for replacement? Hopefully the details will be released to keep us in the know.

11-11-11: All Veterans Memorial

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Most people in Bismarck have probably seen the Veterans Memorial at the state capitol grounds. But how many have inspected it up close? It’s got a unique distinguishing feature that you’d have to experience up close. Not only is the ceiling a perfect hemisphere, making for some interesting acoustics below…it also has a special way of celebrating North Dakota’s veterans every November 11th.

This globe in the middle of the memorial also sits near the focal point of the ceiling above. Strategically placed in the side of the sphere is a tunnel, pointing down at the globe from the southeast.

As the big brass plate on the pedestal of the globe says, on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month the sun shines through that portal and illuminates the state of North Dakota, which is raised on the map. It is normally polished too, but is somewhat tarnished right now. I’m sure that’ll be touched up either for Spring or certainly for Veteran’s Day.

I’ve never been able to make it here at 11am on November 11th, the day that Veteran’s Day is always celebrated. Perhaps next winter I’ll be able to post a photo of the raised ND illuminated by the 11 o’clock sun.

All but forgotten – Greenwood Cemetery

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South of Mandan on the end of a short dirt trail is the entry to the Greenwood Cemetery. In fact, these days the access road to the cemetery passes through some seemingly private land (I don’t know whose). But I doubt this cemetery ever sees many visitors.

There are only about a half-dozen tombstones remaining at this cemetery, all dating back to the mid to late 1800s. Most are in quite a state of disrepair. The cemetery is maintained, however. I may ask around to find out who…what’s important is that it’s not neglected. In fact, several of the stones have protective fences around them.

Here’s a picture of a couple of the stones. The markings on these stones are really neat. The box with stones on it? I don’t know what it is. I certainly wasn’t going to tamper with it.

One thing I missed on this hike was a stone that lies flat and has all kinds of weird markings on it. I haven’t been out to Greenwood Cemetery since I was a kid, so I don’t have a clear recollection of this particular stone. So when there isn’t any snow covering it (it’s behind one of those protective fences) I’m going to get another picture of it.

Only the base of this stone remains. It has a left-leaning cursive message on the white portion: “Gone home to glory: we mourn not as those who have no hope.” Well, the glory of Greenwood Cemetery may have faded, but it still has a quiet charm about it. One can only wonder what’s happened to the family lines of those who rest here.

Update: The verse on the base of that white stone is from I Thessalonians 4:13, which says: “But I would not have you to be ignorant, brethren, concerning them which are asleep, that ye sorrow not, even as others which have no hope.”

That’s where Paul is instructing Christians not to grieve those who have passed away because they have a place in the resurrection.

Verse 14 continues: “For if we believe that Jesus died and rose again, even so them also which sleep in Jesus will God bring with him.”

Side note: Theodore Hagerott wrote a book about this cemetery. It may be available at the state library or the ND State Historical Society if you’re interested in learning more. Greenwood Cemetery remains in my mind one of Mandan’s best kept secrets.

Farewell to Arms

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Pun intended. When I moved to North Dakota, this was the Holiday Inn. The Expressway Bridge hadn’t been built yet, so this was prime real estate. That all changed in 1984. With so much of the inbound traffic heading into Bismarck over either the Grant Marsh or Expressway bridges, this poor facility was doomed to failure.

This building changed hands (and names) several times over the years and was most recently known as the Palace Arms Hotel. Much of the facility was not even in use at that time. The bar hosted a pretty good comedy club at one point but shut down as the Millenium club under some licensing circumstances (if memory serves me correctly). It has sat empty for quite some time.

This will now be the site of the Bank of North Dakota once the demolition is completed and construction can begin. That, combined with the upcoming replacement of the Veterans Memorial Bridge with a shiny new one, could revitalize this area somewhat. Since I love our fair city I hope this eventually comes to fruition.

Story behind the statue

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Who hasn’t seen this wood carving next to the Stage Stop in Mandan? It’s been a landmark since I was a kid. Part of it may be due to its location, or despite its location. Obscured by a power pole and a streetlight in the parking lot of a bar, that’s hardly glamorous. But thousands of people have probably “turned left at the statue” over the past 20 years or so.

I remember riding my bike past this statue when the guy was carving it. His name is Peter Toth, and at the time he claimed he was going to make one of those statues in each of the fifty states. He calls them his “Trail of Tears” series if I remember correctly. Well, he’s made a lot of them. Google “Peter Toth carving” and you’ll get a lot of hits from the states and Canada.

Sadly, no other information popped up on a quick search. Toth was born in Hungary and obviously traveled all over the country making these things, but there’s nothing recent mentioned about him. Did he make all fifty? If you ever find out, let us know.